Monday, 24 January 2011

Thailand - The Mai Hong Son Loop Day 183 (16,892 miles)

We escaped the comfort and ease of Chiang Mai, the daily yoga classes, Boots the chemist, everyone understanding English and headed south west. The Mai Hong Son loop is a favourite amongst motorcyclists for great twisty, hilly roads and pretty countryside within easy reach of Chiang Mai. We had decided to take it slow and only covered 108 miles on our first day (Ok so we virtually stood still). Stayed in a small town called Mae Chaem in the bungalows below, we were the only customers at the in-house restaurant that night so not much atmosphere but the food was good.

We headed towards Khun Yuam and enjoyed the great scenery shown below. The roads weren't deserted there are other tourists doing the same thing plus trucks transporting farmed produce but it's pretty quiet so John was able to relax and enjoy the scenery some of the time.




We stayed a couple of nights in the town of Mae Hong Son, quite a nice little place that has all the things we now associate with Thailand namely a night market, many temples, 24 hour laundry service and good cheap food. Due to the close proximity of Burma some restaurants served Burmese dishes as well. We had a fantastic Burmese green tea salad, very spicy. It probably won't be the same when I try to recreate at home.



Wat Chong Kahm temple below was across the lake from our guesthouse.


We spent sometime at the local moped mechanics while John tried to get some bits to help with the hot tyre/exhaust problem we were having. I have come to the conclusion he would be just as happy to visit garages (and maybe a few bars) on this trip and miss out temples and tourist attractions all together. Hence the photo below!
Huay Sua Thao is a Karan tribe village in this area, Karans were originally from Burma and now live along the Thai side of the Thai/Burmese border. In the village the woman mainly weave and sell their goods to tourists either in the village or at markets in nearby towns.

They are commonly called the long eared or long necked tribe for obvious reasons. A museum we visited stated that around a thousand years ago one of the tribe were attacked by a tiger and the neck rings were then worn as protection. There is some doubt as to whether this is true and now the practice is carried out as a symbol of beauty. Their necks are not actually stretched but the collar bones are pushed down and eventually deformed so this gives the appearance of a long neck. Young girls in their teens are still happy to keep up the tradition but it's hard to tell whether they do it just to keep the tourists coming to the village to buy their handicrafts as this is their main income.



One of the regular stops along this route is Pai, a small town that has a reputation as the home of hippy backpackers who travelled Thailand in the past and ended up staying. So lots of peace, love and tie dye. We stopped for a late lunch but John was keen to push on a bit and stay somewhere more rural.


As it started to get dark we came across the Everest Resort (it was on a bit of a hill but the name was something of an exaggeration), when something is called a resort in Thailand it may be a bit basic but usually there will be food available. This place was miles from anywhere and had lovely huts on stilts (see below) but no food. However they still russled us up a couple of plates of very tasty fried rice, as the owner spoke no English and we could only say Hello and Thank you in Thai this was arranged by means of a phonecall to Bangkok and interpretation via an English speaking relative!

A few more capacity load pics.............
What is the collective noun for monks?
Room for one on top.


In parts of rural Thailand they still eat dog but some pet ones are a fashion accessory just like LA or London.



Wat Rong Khun is a bit different from most Buddhist temples in Thailand, traditionally the buildings are white with lots of gold decoration and touches of red and green. This temple is pure white and silver and has been designed and built by a Thai artist called Chalermchai Kositpipat. It's kind of a cross between a Disney castle and a Christmas cake with some modern art thrown in. Because it's unusual it draws big crowds which kind of detracts from the serene environment found in quieter temples.


We ended the week at the area known as the Golden Triangle where the borders of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet. Famous in the past for opium farming the local farmers are now encouraged to grow legal but less lucrative crops.


Below the Ruak river (we'd never heard of it either) joins the much more famous Mekong river.



Local villagers are happy to show tourists the smoking pipes still used although they won't say what they smoke!



Our plan had been to head over the border to Laos but due to the bike mods required we headed back to Chiang Mai for a few days first.

On to Laos soon.................

Thailand - Tenere Exhaust Modification - Day 184 (16,702 miles)

(This blog is aimed mainly at bike enthusiasts and techies alike, its not our usual travel blog) John.

Some will remember the issues that Jane and I have been having with the rear tyre on the Tenere, which put simply is the tyre is over heating and failing prematurely. We fitted another new rear tyre (the third in only 16,500 miles)when we got to Sydney. This was not because the tyre was worn out but because there was significant cracks appearing in the tyre tread and one could see that the tyre was prematurely ageing. The cracks were not too dissimilar to what you would get when the tyre is regularly over inflated. After time we did consider that we may be over inflating the tyre because of the load we are carrying on the bike, but we had been managing the tyre pressures very accurately because we suspected this first. However, when we met up with other riders in Chiang Mai who were doing the same kind of journey, two up, on the same tyre size and rating with no trouble something didn't seem right. Another factor that I have always considered, but dismissed because I couldn't believe Yamaha would make this kind of error, was the Yamaha Akrapovic exhaust fitted to our Tenere could be heating the rear tyre.

In short the Akrapovic exhaust system was fitted to remove the catalytic converter so that we could use low grade fuel. The design of the Akro exhaust means that there has to be a balance pipe across the rear of the engine, just in front of the rear tyre, to feed the two rear silencers. (Aha I hear!) However, in my defence, everyone I spoke with at the dealers and on the road up to Chiang Mai like me couldn't believe Yamaha would make such an error and also couldn't see how it was possible for the balance pipe to heat up the rear tyre.

Anyway, in Chiang Mai after an aborted trip into Laos because the third tyre was failing prematurely for the same reasons as before, we decided to test the exhaust theory. We returned to a Hotel in Chiang Mai called Riders Corner (great place to stay, details below) the owner Phil is a very helpful man and was able to put us in contact with other people and trades in Chiang Mai who could help us with our problem. Also, after discussing the problem with Colin Saunders of Saunders Motorcycles in the UK, where I got the Akro exhaust, it was becoming clear that the the design was probably the real issue and Colin helped confirm what we should do to try to eliminate the problem. Incidentally, Colin also confirmed that the Akro pipes had two Cat's in the system even though they were advertised and reported in TBM as not having them? This would increase the heat around the rear of the pipes.

The solution was to remove the Cat's to increase the gas flow (to reduce the heat) and have a heat shield manufactured to deflect the heat from the balance pipe away from the rear tyre. Phil and a friend of his called Rob put us in contact with a welder fabricator called 'DKT' in Chiang Mai who could carryout the fab work for us in a design and build kind of approach. So this we did.

This is the Tenere having the exhaust removed.

These are the two welders who worked on our exhaust for six hours, the welder was a very skilled Tig welder and fabricator but he spoke very little English and my Thai is useless outside of a restaurant or bar so we used a series of sketches, gestures and physical demonstrations to get the design and requirements across. The owner however speaks great English but he is not around all of the time.



This the finished job with the two shiny bits of tube on the LH and RH side of the pipe replacing the two Cat's and the shiny tube in the middle at the back of the picture being the new heat shield. The whole job cost us 1400 Baht (£28). You can see from this picture how close the balance pipe is to the rear tyre.



After the first 400 hundred miles it is clear that the tyre is running at a much lower temperature, and the same temperature as a couple we met (Matt and Anita) who are two up on a 'Honda Transalp' so a good comparison. We are very hopeful that this will resolve our problem.


Just in case its needed the details of the places in Chaing Mai that we used are as follows:


Riders Corner (Accomadation, Food, Drinks, Internet and information)
Phil Gibbins (Phil also runs a website called rideasia.net which has other ride reports in good info - link below)
N 18.79489
E 098.99348
Tel: 087-0481787 085-6188914
Add: 357 Moon Muang Road Chiang Mai.


DKT welder fabricators (GPS coordinates ads the place is almost impossible to find otherwise)
N 18.76714
E 098.98189
Tel: 053-202269-70


Joe's Bike Team
Joe Sauerborn
Tel: 053-251186
Add: 26/1 SOI 2 Chang Moi RD Chiang Mai. 50300.


The Travel Boutique. Good for visa, travel information and trips.
The owner is a great lady called 'Boong'
Tel: 0066 (0) 89-4331505
Add: 44/3 Sridonchai Rd Chiang Mai.


Clothing and Bike Bag Repairs Chiaig Mai - Phil at Riders Corner knows a great place for good cheap repairs.





Tuesday, 18 January 2011

Thailand - Chiang Mai Day Day 177 (16,200 miles)

We arrived in Chiang Mai which is probably the best known city in northern Thailand on 7th January. We have been here before, around 10 years ago and like many places it has grown and now attracts more tourists. The good thing is that the city centre is surrounded by a moat so this part which is a couple of biggish roads and a maze of small streets hasn't changed that much.

Our visit was timed to coincide with the Horizons Unlimited annual meeting, some of you will know we have attended Horizons events in Spain and the US before and its a good opportunity to meet up with others who are/have or want to do some travelling by motorcycle.

Below is a group shot of those who attended.






Why are we always the last to leave the bar? The diehard contingency below, John with Kelly (from Oz), John (from UK) and Dave (from US) with whom we were to share many more enjoyable evenings!



Our first guesthouse wasn't great (see below), a vase of flowers in the room would be nice but bushes growing through the window was not so good. Plus the leaky ceiling through which something (not sure what) dripped all night. Needless to say we moved on to somewhere nicer the next day.


John took this to prove he does let me do some shopping, although it is a present for someone else.


Chiang Mai's Sunday night market has some amazingly good and cheap food, definitely the place to eat.


Hope the pressie we bought for Sasha Mai makes it home, the Post Office gets a little busy!


Our first Tuk Tuk ride of this trip, they're always fun.


There are still a few tigers in the wild in south east asia but for those of us that don't have many months to sit in the jungle waiting there is Tiger Kingdom! We would not normally go to zoos but the temptation of being able to go in the cages with them was too much! Below are a few photo's, as you can imagine we took many,many more.

Three months old


6 months old

1 year old

23 months old, this is a very precise age as apparently when they get to 24 months the public are no longer allowed in with them as they are naturally solitary animals and although still not fully mature it's a bit of a risk!

They were surprising docile to the point that it was hard to believe they weren't sedated. However, there was an Aussie conservation student doing voluntary work who we spoke to in the enclosure of the big ones and he was adamant they are just very well fed and basically in the wild tigers laze around for most of the day and hunt in the evening and early morning.

I couldn't get John to put his head in the tiger's mouth (now that would have been a fab photo) he seemed to think our travel insurance may not cover the consequences.


We had a fun evening watching Thai boxing, the locals love to bet on the bouts and get very excited so it's a good atmosphere and is the asian way we were able to barter the entrance fee down as there were a few of us.


Thailand - Starting in the south - Day 169 (15,722 miles)

New Years Eve found us across the border in Hat Yai the 4th biggest city in Thailand. Nothing pretty or quaint about this place but it is surprisingly popular, it turns out that's because Thailand in general is cheaper than Malaysia and being close to the border lots of Malaysians like to come here for cheaper goods.

Pictured below is our New Years Eve dinner, we couldn't work out what the fish was but it was quite tasty. In true Asian style the air was thick with smoke from the amazingly loud firecrackers that were being let off in buildings, under cars, thrown from motorbikes. There is no light with a long taper and stand well back in this part of the world!








One night we ended up in a tiny little seaside village that was hardly on the map, we had booked some accommodation (above) from the previous town but could not find it when we got to the village. After some miming and smiling with a few locals in a phone shop a very helpful Ladyboy jumped on his/her moped and led us the 8km down the road, we would never have found it by ourselves.





The Hotel California in Cha am, insisted we park the bike in reception!



A selection of examples of the 'load to capacity' ethos.









The one above is a moped towing a jet ski and a boat!
















Suppose it's only fair that all parts of the world should have access to the convenience of supermarkets as we in the west do but Tesco surely are going for world domination.


The famous bridge over the river Kwai at Kanchanaburi the bridge and railway were built by Allied POW's and Asian forced labour during WW2. One worker died for each railway sleeper that was laid.


We stayed overnight near the bridge at this lovely little guesthouse, room, dinner, beer and breakfast for 12 pounds!


Sunset over the river Kwai



We spent a couple of days in Sukhothai which was the ancient capital of this region of Thailand. A beautiful place, we took hundreds of photos but have just included a couple below as it won't be long before us and chances are you will have seen photos of many more!




Sukhothai was also where we met Kevin and Melinda a Canadian couple who have been visiting this part of Asia for many years they gave us lots of advice on places to visit and inspired us with their tales of riding 2 up on a 175cc for months on end.
Bye for now .....................