Monday, 24 January 2011
Thailand - The Mai Hong Son Loop Day 183 (16,892 miles)
Thailand - Tenere Exhaust Modification - Day 184 (16,702 miles)
Some will remember the issues that Jane and I have been having with the rear tyre on the Tenere, which put simply is the tyre is over heating and failing prematurely. We fitted another new rear tyre (the third in only 16,500 miles)when we got to Sydney. This was not because the tyre was worn out but because there was significant cracks appearing in the tyre tread and one could see that the tyre was prematurely ageing. The cracks were not too dissimilar to what you would get when the tyre is regularly over inflated. After time we did consider that we may be over inflating the tyre because of the load we are carrying on the bike, but we had been managing the tyre pressures very accurately because we suspected this first. However, when we met up with other riders in Chiang Mai who were doing the same kind of journey, two up, on the same tyre size and rating with no trouble something didn't seem right. Another factor that I have always considered, but dismissed because I couldn't believe Yamaha would make this kind of error, was the Yamaha Akrapovic exhaust fitted to our Tenere could be heating the rear tyre.
In short the Akrapovic exhaust system was fitted to remove the catalytic converter so that we could use low grade fuel. The design of the Akro exhaust means that there has to be a balance pipe across the rear of the engine, just in front of the rear tyre, to feed the two rear silencers. (Aha I hear!) However, in my defence, everyone I spoke with at the dealers and on the road up to Chiang Mai like me couldn't believe Yamaha would make such an error and also couldn't see how it was possible for the balance pipe to heat up the rear tyre.
Anyway, in Chiang Mai after an aborted trip into Laos because the third tyre was failing prematurely for the same reasons as before, we decided to test the exhaust theory. We returned to a Hotel in Chiang Mai called Riders Corner (great place to stay, details below) the owner Phil is a very helpful man and was able to put us in contact with other people and trades in Chiang Mai who could help us with our problem. Also, after discussing the problem with Colin Saunders of Saunders Motorcycles in the UK, where I got the Akro exhaust, it was becoming clear that the the design was probably the real issue and Colin helped confirm what we should do to try to eliminate the problem. Incidentally, Colin also confirmed that the Akro pipes had two Cat's in the system even though they were advertised and reported in TBM as not having them? This would increase the heat around the rear of the pipes.
The solution was to remove the Cat's to increase the gas flow (to reduce the heat) and have a heat shield manufactured to deflect the heat from the balance pipe away from the rear tyre. Phil and a friend of his called Rob put us in contact with a welder fabricator called 'DKT' in Chiang Mai who could carryout the fab work for us in a design and build kind of approach. So this we did.
This is the Tenere having the exhaust removed.

These are the two welders who worked on our exhaust for six hours, the welder was a very skilled Tig welder and fabricator but he spoke very little English and my Thai is useless outside of a restaurant or bar so we used a series of sketches, gestures and physical demonstrations to get the design and requirements across. The owner however speaks great English but he is not around all of the time.

This the finished job with the two shiny bits of tube on the LH and RH side of the pipe replacing the two Cat's and the shiny tube in the middle at the back of the picture being the new heat shield. The whole job cost us 1400 Baht (£28). You can see from this picture how close the balance pipe is to the rear tyre.
After the first 400 hundred miles it is clear that the tyre is running at a much lower temperature, and the same temperature as a couple we met (Matt and Anita) who are two up on a 'Honda Transalp' so a good comparison. We are very hopeful that this will resolve our problem.
Tuesday, 18 January 2011
Thailand - Chiang Mai Day Day 177 (16,200 miles)
Our visit was timed to coincide with the Horizons Unlimited annual meeting, some of you will know we have attended Horizons events in Spain and the US before and its a good opportunity to meet up with others who are/have or want to do some travelling by motorcycle.
Below is a group shot of those who attended.
Why are we always the last to leave the bar? The diehard contingency below, John with Kelly (from Oz), John (from UK) and Dave (from US) with whom we were to share many more enjoyable evenings!
Our first guesthouse wasn't great (see below), a vase of flowers in the room would be nice but bushes growing through the window was not so good. Plus the leaky ceiling through which something (not sure what) dripped all night. Needless to say we moved on to somewhere nicer the next day.
John took this to prove he does let me do some shopping, although it is a present for someone else.
Chiang Mai's Sunday night market has some amazingly good and cheap food, definitely the place to eat.
Hope the pressie we bought for Sasha Mai makes it home, the Post Office gets a little busy!
Our first Tuk Tuk ride of this trip, they're always fun.
There are still a few tigers in the wild in south east asia but for those of us that don't have many months to sit in the jungle waiting there is Tiger Kingdom! We would not normally go to zoos but the temptation of being able to go in the cages with them was too much! Below are a few photo's, as you can imagine we took many,many more.
Three months old
6 months old
1 year old
23 months old, this is a very precise age as apparently when they get to 24 months the public are no longer allowed in with them as they are naturally solitary animals and although still not fully mature it's a bit of a risk!
They were surprising docile to the point that it was hard to believe they weren't sedated. However, there was an Aussie conservation student doing voluntary work who we spoke to in the enclosure of the big ones and he was adamant they are just very well fed and basically in the wild tigers laze around for most of the day and hunt in the evening and early morning.
I couldn't get John to put his head in the tiger's mouth (now that would have been a fab photo) he seemed to think our travel insurance may not cover the consequences.
We had a fun evening watching Thai boxing, the locals love to bet on the bouts and get very excited so it's a good atmosphere and is the asian way we were able to barter the entrance fee down as there were a few of us.
Thailand - Starting in the south - Day 169 (15,722 miles)
Pictured below is our New Years Eve dinner, we couldn't work out what the fish was but it was quite tasty. In true Asian style the air was thick with smoke from the amazingly loud firecrackers that were being let off in buildings, under cars, thrown from motorbikes. There is no light with a long taper and stand well back in this part of the world!
One night we ended up in a tiny little seaside village that was hardly on the map, we had booked some accommodation (above) from the previous town but could not find it when we got to the village. After some miming and smiling with a few locals in a phone shop a very helpful Ladyboy jumped on his/her moped and led us the 8km down the road, we would never have found it by ourselves.
The Hotel California in Cha am, insisted we park the bike in reception!
A selection of examples of the 'load to capacity' ethos.
The one above is a moped towing a jet ski and a boat!
Suppose it's only fair that all parts of the world should have access to the convenience of supermarkets as we in the west do but Tesco surely are going for world domination.
The famous bridge over the river Kwai at Kanchanaburi the bridge and railway were built by Allied POW's and Asian forced labour during WW2. One worker died for each railway sleeper that was laid.
We stayed overnight near the bridge at this lovely little guesthouse, room, dinner, beer and breakfast for 12 pounds!
Sunset over the river Kwai
We spent a couple of days in Sukhothai which was the ancient capital of this region of Thailand. A beautiful place, we took hundreds of photos but have just included a couple below as it won't be long before us and chances are you will have seen photos of many more!